nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile

ARTISAN IN LUANG PRABANG, LAO

    
     I know of no other country with its population as laid-back as Lao. On the surface, nothing seems to bother the Lao people. A common Lao saying is ‘bo pen nyang’ (no problem or never mind). Much of this is due to the belief system of Theravada Buddhism, a small branch of Buddhism practiced in Lao, Cambodia, Thailand, and Sri Lanka. Theravada Buddhism partly emphasizes the cooling of human passions, thus making strong emotions taboo in Lao society. Karma is believed to determine one’s life, so the Lao people don’t get too worked up about the past or the future. Avoiding any psychological stress is a cultural norm. From the Lao perspective, unless an activity contains an element of muan (fun), it will probably lead to stress.


     Lao has a school of performing arts that includes traditional dancing and music. The practice of classical Lao music and drama has been in decline for years. However, Lao folk and pop music is still being created. The principle instrument is a khaen, a wind instrument made of a double row of bamboo-like reeds fitted into a hardwood soundbox and made airtight with beeswax. There are between four and eight rows, and can vary in length from 80cm to 2m. When the khaen plays, the people dance circles around each other. This popular folk dance is called lamvong. Lao pop music has become popular, and even Lao hip hop.

WAT XIENG THONG , LUANG PRABANG, LAO

     Lao is best known for the architecture of its many temples, and for its weavings. The best architects in Lao have concentrated on Buddhist temples, making the Lao stupas unique from neighboring countries. The traditional weavings use dyes made from tamarind, turmeric, tree bark, and even insects. Weavers in southern Lao, using foot looms rather than frame looms, are known for making the countries best silk weavings.
     There is no national game in Lao, but popular sports include kataw, tee kee, and petanque. Kataw is played with a rattan ball and it is kicked back and forth over a net. Tee kee is a rough type of hockey played with a rattan ball. Petanque is a form of lawn bowling, or bocce. Lao games focus more on entertainment than competition, and tend to be more home and neighborhood based.

i went down to the mountain, i was drinking some wine

CHILIS AND LIMES IN THE PAKSE, LAO MARKET

     Lao cuisine is similar to Thai cuisine in many ways, both using simple, fresh ingredients. The mix of spicy, salty, sweet, and sour are apparent in both countries. Fresh chilis bring the spicy heat to a dish, and the fermented fish sauce brings the saltiness. The liberal use of lemongrass, mint, cilantro, and basil, balance with the lime juice and kaffir lime leaves. Other common seasonings include galangal, tamarind, ginger, peanuts, and coconut milk.
     You are unlikely to find salt and pepper on a Lao table. But, there will be various dipping sauces, chilis, and garlic on the table. To salt food, ‘pa dek’ is used. This is a Lao preparation that includes chunks of fermented freshwater fish. It is similar to the thin sauce of fermented anchovies found in Thailand, and the fermented fish sauce found in Vietnam.

THE BEST BEER IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

     Rice is the foundation of all Lao meals, like the rest of Southeast Asia. The Lao difference, is the eating of sticky rice, a highly glutinous rice. Sticky rice is served in woven baskets and is eaten with the fingers. A small amount is dug from the basket and kneaded between fingers and the thumb. The small flattened wad can be dipped into various sauces or pressed into a dish and thus eaten.
     One of the most common Lao dishes is ‘laap.’ This is a salad of minced meat tossed with lime juice, garlic, green onions, mint leaves, and chilis. This dish is usually served with lettuce and mint leaves. Using your fingers, you wrap a little laap in the lettuce and herbs, and eat it with hand-rolled balls of sticky rice.
     Lao meals are usually ordered family style, which is to say that two or more people order together, sharing different dishes. Meals are shared and this is a social time. Toward the end of a meal, ‘lao-lao’ (rice whisky) is sometimes served. One glass is used, and one person pours a shot at a time, passing the glass around the group. Beer lao is often served this way as well, the object of being social rather than getting drunk. Meals can last for hours, food and drink shared by all.