nothing left to do but smile, smile, smile

ARTISAN IN LUANG PRABANG, LAO

    
     I know of no other country with its population as laid-back as Lao. On the surface, nothing seems to bother the Lao people. A common Lao saying is ‘bo pen nyang’ (no problem or never mind). Much of this is due to the belief system of Theravada Buddhism, a small branch of Buddhism practiced in Lao, Cambodia, Thailand, and Sri Lanka. Theravada Buddhism partly emphasizes the cooling of human passions, thus making strong emotions taboo in Lao society. Karma is believed to determine one’s life, so the Lao people don’t get too worked up about the past or the future. Avoiding any psychological stress is a cultural norm. From the Lao perspective, unless an activity contains an element of muan (fun), it will probably lead to stress.


     Lao has a school of performing arts that includes traditional dancing and music. The practice of classical Lao music and drama has been in decline for years. However, Lao folk and pop music is still being created. The principle instrument is a khaen, a wind instrument made of a double row of bamboo-like reeds fitted into a hardwood soundbox and made airtight with beeswax. There are between four and eight rows, and can vary in length from 80cm to 2m. When the khaen plays, the people dance circles around each other. This popular folk dance is called lamvong. Lao pop music has become popular, and even Lao hip hop.

WAT XIENG THONG , LUANG PRABANG, LAO

     Lao is best known for the architecture of its many temples, and for its weavings. The best architects in Lao have concentrated on Buddhist temples, making the Lao stupas unique from neighboring countries. The traditional weavings use dyes made from tamarind, turmeric, tree bark, and even insects. Weavers in southern Lao, using foot looms rather than frame looms, are known for making the countries best silk weavings.
     There is no national game in Lao, but popular sports include kataw, tee kee, and petanque. Kataw is played with a rattan ball and it is kicked back and forth over a net. Tee kee is a rough type of hockey played with a rattan ball. Petanque is a form of lawn bowling, or bocce. Lao games focus more on entertainment than competition, and tend to be more home and neighborhood based.

i went down to the mountain, i was drinking some wine

CHILIS AND LIMES IN THE PAKSE, LAO MARKET

     Lao cuisine is similar to Thai cuisine in many ways, both using simple, fresh ingredients. The mix of spicy, salty, sweet, and sour are apparent in both countries. Fresh chilis bring the spicy heat to a dish, and the fermented fish sauce brings the saltiness. The liberal use of lemongrass, mint, cilantro, and basil, balance with the lime juice and kaffir lime leaves. Other common seasonings include galangal, tamarind, ginger, peanuts, and coconut milk.
     You are unlikely to find salt and pepper on a Lao table. But, there will be various dipping sauces, chilis, and garlic on the table. To salt food, ‘pa dek’ is used. This is a Lao preparation that includes chunks of fermented freshwater fish. It is similar to the thin sauce of fermented anchovies found in Thailand, and the fermented fish sauce found in Vietnam.

THE BEST BEER IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

     Rice is the foundation of all Lao meals, like the rest of Southeast Asia. The Lao difference, is the eating of sticky rice, a highly glutinous rice. Sticky rice is served in woven baskets and is eaten with the fingers. A small amount is dug from the basket and kneaded between fingers and the thumb. The small flattened wad can be dipped into various sauces or pressed into a dish and thus eaten.
     One of the most common Lao dishes is ‘laap.’ This is a salad of minced meat tossed with lime juice, garlic, green onions, mint leaves, and chilis. This dish is usually served with lettuce and mint leaves. Using your fingers, you wrap a little laap in the lettuce and herbs, and eat it with hand-rolled balls of sticky rice.
     Lao meals are usually ordered family style, which is to say that two or more people order together, sharing different dishes. Meals are shared and this is a social time. Toward the end of a meal, ‘lao-lao’ (rice whisky) is sometimes served. One glass is used, and one person pours a shot at a time, passing the glass around the group. Beer lao is often served this way as well, the object of being social rather than getting drunk. Meals can last for hours, food and drink shared by all.

going where the climate suits my clothes

4000 ISLANDS IN THE MEKONG RIVER, SOUTHERN LAO

    
     As the temperature plummets here in the northwest corner of America, I begin dreaming about the warmer climate in Lao. The Lao climate is tropical monsoonal. The monsoon rains fall from June to October, and this is the time of major crop cultivation. The Annamite mountain range separates Vietnam from Lao, and blocks the direct effect of typhoons that annually hit Vietnam and the Philippine islands. Usually, the monsoon rains fall in the afternoon, then the skies clear until the next day, when the cycle repeats. There are often extended days of sunshine before the rain cycle continues.
     Rivers are the traditional highways and byways of Lao and at the end of the rainy season, rivers are at their highest and are most navigable. November starts the cool and dry season, and this lasts until February. Temperatures during this season are about 30C (90F) during the day and 20C (70F) during the night. Then comes the hot and dry season, March to May. During this time of year, the temperature can be 40C (110F) during the day and 30C (90F) during the night. Being 15 degrees north of the equator, southern Lao will be a welcome change from my native Seattle, at 48 degrees north of the equator.

MEKONG RIVER, LUANG PRABANG, LAO

out of the door and into the street all alone



BERGEN, NORWAY

     This blog is about life as a solo traveler. I consider myself a traveler, not a tourist. When I travel, I want to experience the local people’s way of life. I can do this by staying in hostels, guesthouses, or in homestays. I do not stay in hotels or resorts. Rather than taking package tours or tourist buses, I use local transportation. A much slower way to travel, but this method of transportation gives me the opportunity to interact with the local people. Instead of eating in fancy restaurants, I choose to eat at the food stalls on the street. I find that the authentic local food can be enjoyed where the local people eat. As a traveler, I enjoy living outside my comfort zone. I like to push myself to experience new situations and new people. By exploring the world as a traveler, I can do this quite well.

CAMPECHE, MEXICO

     I travel slowly, visiting fewer places, but for longer stays. When I arrive somewhere new, I first look for a place to sleep. Instead of booking a room at a place I’ve never been, I find a place to stay upon arrival. I enjoy this flexibility, and often find some superb accommodations. I am learning to rely on my instinct and intuition, and when I find a place I like, I stay for a while. If I find a place that feels uncomfortable, I move on. This concerns sleeping places as well as cities, town, or villages. If it feels good, I stay for a while. The longer I stay in one place, the more local people I meet, and the easier it is to experience the local peoples lifestyle. Each day begins with no plans, I like the day to unfold as it will. With little effort, opportunities arise and situations present themselves, and my days are full of pleasant happenings.

PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA

     
     Of course, the life of a traveler is not always pleasant. Shit happens, but that is a part of life anywhere. Sometimes it gets lonely, but that can be resolved by finding other travelers or interacting with local people. After all, it is the people that make the place. It is the people I meet along the way that later remind me of a place. Other travelers let me look at their guidebooks so I don’t have to carry a heavy travel book. Other travelers trade me their reading books so I only have to carry one at a time. Other travelers share their experiences so I can learn about new places to visit and places to sleep and eat. It is the people I meet that are forever in my heart and mind. The people, make my travels pleasant.

HANOI, VIETNAM

     It is as a traveler, that I have found a country I want to live in. As a traveler, I have found that I like the southern part of this country. And, as a traveler, I have selected a small town to settle myself. Soon, my real adventure begins. Because I have traveled for years as a solo traveler, I am comfortable moving permanently abroad. Sure, it will be difficult at times, but since I am at ease being a traveler, I know I can deal with anything that comes up. Let the wild rumpus begin . . .

sleepy alligator in the noonday sun

     This blog posting is about Lao wildlife and plants. The Lao people get their protein from food culled from nature, not from farms or ranches. Most of the Lao people live alongside a river, making fish their main source of protein. The giant Mekong catfish can grow up to three meters long and can weigh as much as 300 kg. Unfortunately, the damming of the Mekong River is leading to its extinction in the wild. Overfishing of lakes and rivers also poses a risk to fish species. Lao has about 340 species of fish, the main ones being catfish, barb, carp, sharkminnow, and sheatfish. Among the endangered aquatic species in Lao, are the Irrawaddy dolphin and the Siamese crocodile.


BATHING BEFORE GIVING ME A RIDE THROUGH THE JUNGLE AND ACROSS THE RIVER, NEAR TAT LO

    
     Lao has one of the least disturbed ecosystems in Asia. This is due to its overall lack of development and low population density. Lao was once known as 'the land of a million elephants'. However, today, only about 800 remain in the wild. Another 1200 Asiatic elephants are used for heavy labor in the logging and agricultural fields. Some are being used in the tourism industry. I took an elephant ride earlier this year, and I was thrilled with the experience! These large mammals move gently through the narrow jungle trails and over the slippery river rocks! Amazing! Elephants are revered in Lao, and I watched eight elephants walk down the main street of Champasak, on their way to a Buddhist celebration at Wat Phou, Lao's most important archeaological site. All the Champasak families came out to watch this elephant procession, and the children brought the elephants bananas, leaves, and water. A joyful celebration that occurs every february! I'm looking forward to watching the elephant races next year!!!

ELEPHANTS STROLLING DOWN THE MAIN STREET IN CHAMPASAK, LAO

     Almost all the wild animals in Lao are threatened to some extent by hunting and habitat loss. Animals native to Lao include the lesser panda, raccoon dog, Lao marmoset rat, Owston's civet, and the pygmy slow loris. The most noted of Lao's wildlife are the primates. Five species of gibbon, the Phayre's leaf monkey, two types of langur, and several macaques are all unique to Lao. The list of endangered species is long, the most notable being the Asiatic black bear, the Malayan sun bear, the tiger, leopard, and the clouded leopard. Some endangered species are so rare, they were unknown until recently. In 1992, the spindlehorn, a horned mammal, was found in the Annamite mountains. This animal was described in 14th century Chinese journals and was thought to have died out. In 2005, a species of rock rat was discovered, the sole surviving species of a prehistoric group of rodents that died out about 11 million years ago.

BREAKFAST BEFORE GIVING ME A RIDE

    

     Forest covers about 70% of Lao, and the country ranks 17th in the world in terms of forest cover as a percentage of total land cover. Most of the vegetation is associated with monsoon forests, and is a mixture of deciduous trees. There are no rainforests in Lao, though nonindigenous rainforest species, like the coconut palm, do exist in the lower Mekong River valley. Teak, padauk (Asian rosewood), and mahogany grow in the forest cover. Many fruit trees, bamboo, and a large amount of flowering species are also found. In the higher plateaus, grasslands and savanna are common. The Bolaven Plateau, in the southern part of the country, is home to high-grade coffee and tea plantations. There are 20 national protected areas in Lao, protecting 18% of the country, making Lao one of the most protected countries on the planet!

his job is to shed light, and not to master

TAT KUANG SI, NEAR LUANG PRABANG, LAO

     Land-locked Lao is about the size of Great Britain. Over 70% of the country is covered by mountains and plateaus. Northern Lao is made up of steep-sloped mountain ranges and the highest peak is 2820 meters high. Southern Lao is mostly fertile plains, where the majority of Lao agriculture takes place. The Annamite mountain range, 1500-2500 meters high, separates Lao from Vietnam. The Mekong River separates Lao from Thailand. The mighty Mekong River, with its source on the Tibetan Plateau, flows through Lao, bringing fertile soil to the rice, vegetable, and fruit fields in southern Lao. The Mekong River, as well as its many tributaries, also supplies the Lao people with a vital part of their diet, fish. 4% of the total surface area of Lao is arable land, compared to 30% of the total surface area of Thailand. 1% of the total surface area of Lao is irrigated, compared to 10% of the total surface area of Thailand.

       
                            SOUTHEAST ASIA          POPULATION            AREA                DENSITY
                                 COUNTRY                      (2011)                (SQ. KM.)          (POP/AREA)

                                LAOS                           6.5 MILLION            236,800                  28
                                CAMBODIA                15.0 MILLION            181,035                  84
                                MALAYSIA                 28.0 MILLION            329,847                  86
                                MYANMAR                 62.0 MILLION            676,578                  92
                                THAILAND                  64.0 MILLION            513,120                125
                                VIETNAM                    89.0 MILLION            331,210                270
                                PHILIPPINES               96.0 MILLION            300,000                320


     This table shows that Lao is the least populated and least dense, of all the Southeast Asian countries. 80% of the Lao people work in agriculture and live in rural areas. Lao is one of the United Nations Least Developed Countries, with the goal of getting off this list by 2020. Being land-locked, and having no ports or rail links, Lao struggles to trade with the world economies. There are plans for a railway connecting China and Thailand, with the rails traveling thru northern Lao. There are also plans for a railway connecting Thailand with Vietnam, with the rails traveling thru central Lao. Lao is a member of ASEAN (an economic group of Asian countries), ASEM (an economic group of Asian and European countries), and will join WTO in 2013. Lao mining and hydropower are the driving force of the Lao economy.


                                 SOUTHEAST ASIA         ECONOMIC VALUE                 ECONOMIC
                                     COUNTRY                 GDP  IN USD (2011)       GROWTH RATE (2011)

                                    LAO                                    8 BILLION                            8.3 %
                                    CAMBODIA                       13 BILLION                            6.1 %
                                    MALAYSIA                      279 BILLION                            5.2 %
                                    MYANMAR                        52 BILLION                     5.5 %
                                    THAILAND                       346 BILLION                            6.2 %
                                    VIETNAM                         123 BILLION                            5.9 %
                                    PHILIPPINES                    213 BILLION                            3.7 %


     For comparison purposes, nearby Indonesia has a GDP of 846 billion, and China has a GDP of 7 trillion. Lao may have a small economy and a small population, but it has joined the ‘modern’ world. WIFI is available across the country, as well as cell phone use. There is electricity available in the cities and towns. There are banks, yet few ATM machines. Lao is advancing rapidly, yet still embraces a lifestyle from generations past. 60% of the Lao people practice Theravada Buddhism, a relatively small branch of Buddhism, found also in Thailand, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka. 40% of the Lao people practice Animism, a belief in the existence of spirits that animate the world for good or bad. I am moving to Lao to experience a slower-paced lifestyle, without the materialism. I want to live in the moment, and have time to spend with the community members, to laugh, to love, and to share our lives!

NAM SONG AND LIMESTONE CLIFFS NEAR VANG VIENG, LAO

see here how everything, lead up to this day

   

4000 ISLANDS IN THE MEKONG RIVER, DON DET, LAO

 
     This past year, I have been doing research in preparation for my upcoming move abroad. Not much information exists, unless you are a wealthy American looking to live the American life in another country. This blog is a way to share what I have learned about moving to a foreign country, with the goal being to live like the locals. I have chosen to maintain an address, drivers license, and bank account, in America. This is not a requirement, this is my personal choice. I have a will, living will, durable power of attorney for healthcare, and cremation authorization, available if ever needed. I think these are a good idea for any traveler, especially for those looking to live someplace other than their homeland.

     Americans can live anywhere in the world as long as they want, without returning to America after a certain time. Unlike some countries, there is no requirement of periodically returning to America to maintain citizenship. Unless one was to renounce American citizenship and accept another countries passport, an American retains citizenship. I renewed my American passport and was able to get a 52-page passport, rather than the standard 26-page, both costing the same. This is excellent for travelers who fill pages quickly. My standard passport filled three years before expiring, and instead of getting extra pages put in it for 82$, I got a new larger one for 110$, expiring in ten years. This is the passport renewal fee, not the fee to get one’s first passport.

     When I reach American retirement age, I can apply for social security benefits online anywhere, and have monthly deposits put in any financial institution in the world. I do not have to live in America to receive benefits, and benefits do not have to be deposited into an American bank. Concerning the death of an American citizen abroad, this is a relatively straightforward process. The country where an American citizen dies, sends their passport and any remaining personal effects, to the nearest American embassy. The embassy sends a death notice to the personal contact on the deceased’s passport, and the standard death process ensues. This is much easier if one has registered with the nearest American embassy, a choice, not a requirement.

     I have learned what is needed to move abroad, and have purchased a one-way ticket for february 1, 2013. This will give me time to receive my tax forms and file my 2012 taxes before I leave. I have gotten rid of my material posessions, and will leave nothing in storage in America. With a small backpack, a small duffle bag, and my laptop, I am ready to go. A Nigerian folk saying I like is:

                     THE DAY ON WHICH ONE STARTS OUT, IS NOT THE TIME TO START ONE'S PREPARATION

VIEW OF HALONG BAY, VIETNAM, FROM CAT BA ISLAND