12 April 2013

it doesn't matter what you wear just as long as you are there

     I was invited, and attended my first ‘basi’ the other day. The family that runs my favorite champasak guesthouse, invited me to their grand-daughters first basi. I wasn’t sure what I was getting into, but the family helped me take part in the festivities. I was amazed to find lots of people already present, when I showed up a bit before the event’s beginning. I got so used to things starting long after the stated time, that I was a bit shocked to see lots of people ready to go at 7am! In the center of the room was a ‘phakhoun,’ a tree-shaped structure that is an offering to the spirit world. The phakhoun was full of flowers and pieces of white thread, which were used later in the ceremony.


PHAKHOUN IN MIDDLE OF CEREMONY
     
     The monks arrived and sat along the outer wall, with the guests sitting everywhere else. Everyone was dressed in their finest, women in their best ‘sin’ (traditional lao skirt), and men with their sash (scarf draped around their shirt). An elder monk began the ceremony by chanting blessings in Pali and Lao. At times the audience spoke in reply, but, it was mostly the monks chanting. Everyone had a ‘khan’ with them, and at one point, two candles were lit and placed in their khan. A khan is a silver-colored container used to carry merit-making items. Since I did not have one, or even know of their existence, at that time, the family gave me one to use, filled with merit-making items.

MONKS SHARING FOOD
     
     When the blessings were finished, the guests rose and gave alms to the monks. This involved emptying your khan into each monks bag, some for each monk. The merit-making items included sticky rice, fruit, candy, and money. Merit-making (het boun) is the giving of alms to the monks. In daily life this can be observed at sunrise all over the country, where the local people give rice and food to the monks, as they walk through the village. For this basi, each monk present received something from everyone. Like everything else in Lao society, het boun is done in the company of others, but the merit-making is extremely individualistic. Everyone makes merit by giving alms to the monks. In simple terms, the thought is ‘do good get good, do bad get bad’. Everyone gives to the monks.


GIVING ALMS TO THE MONKS
     
     The guests returned to help the monks bless the child and the parents. At this time, the tying of threads commences. The white thread on the phakhoun, were first tied to the wrists of the baby girl, then the rest of the family. As the threads are tied, a wish is made and the person then ties a thread to another guest. Anybody can exchange wishes and threads with anybody else. The person who is subject of the ceremony, gets the most wishes and threads. The baby girl was covered in tied threads and received many wishes! At this time, the basi was over, but the festivities would continue, with lots of food for everyone. I was seated at the families table, and was honored to be a part of this wonderful experience! I met this family three years ago, they helped me find a house to rent, and have welcomed me into their lives. I am truly blessed!!!

TOP LEFT - FATHER AND MOTHER OF BABY GIRL

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